Grand Canyon and Southern Utah Itinerary

Thank you to everyone who followed our summer trip. I have the best time planning vacations - I think I missed my calling!  Here is the itinerary as promised - a couple of disclaimers - you need to be relatively fit to participate in all the activities, and you need to be OK with getting up SUPER EARLY some of the days so you can catch sunrises or beat the heat. Now go forth, and have adventures! If you do end up following this itinerary, let me know, and tell me how your trip was.

 You may be wondering why I put this on a veterinarian website and my question back to you is - why not?  I have a passion for travel, and I love to combine careers - so why not post it here? Work life balance is a big issue in our profession, and I would love to see more vets posting pictures from the parts of their life that doesn't revolve around veterinary medicine.

So here goes - the itinerary for the most epic southern utah grand canyon trip you will ever take - 8 parks, 2 weeks, no holds barred - HERE. WE. GO.

​If you have a 4th grader, make sure to get your ‘every kid in a park’ pass - it'll save you $80!

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Day 1: Travel day
This is a road trip. You need a camper of some variation, or a tent. Our trip started in Greeley, Colorado, but you can start this from anywhere. For now, I will pretend you are starting in Greeley.

Drive Greeley to Durango, stay in cheap hotel. Stretch your legs at the fun park on the river, and visit Ska Brewing for beer and street food. This brewery is very family friendly, the beer is good, and the food is cheap and good! There is an awesome outdoor area for kids to play and outdoor seating to relax and enjoy the food and view.

Day 2: Mesa Verde NP

Up and at em! Get up at 5:30 a.m., hit the free breakfast at the hotel at 6 a.m., and drive to Mesa Verde National Park. Several of the cliff houses are only accessible with rangers, the tours are popular, so you have to get in line early to score tickets. Be in line at 6:45 at the visitor’s center. We had wanted to go to Cliff Palace, but the tour we wanted was already sold out, so we opted for Balcony House instead. Allow 30-45 minutes of driving from the visitor center to the trailhead. 

We were towing a camper and they don’t allow trailers up the road - too twisty! Fortunately there is a parking lot where you can leave your trailer right inside the park.

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Balcony House is the Indiana Jones Tour of Mesa Verde and super fun for kids. You hike down a short trail and are first faced with a 30 foot ladder to climb up into the cliff dwelling. Then you must climb in and around the cliff dwellings to complete the tour, as well as crawl through a short tiny tunnel, climb two more 10 foot ladders, and then scale a vertical cliff face - don’t worry - there are chains to hold onto. It was SUPER fun and we loved it! If you aren’t into that much adventure, Cliff Palace is more sedate, but tickets are hard to come by and you still have to climb some ladders. The tour of Balcony House cost $25.

Next, we stopped at the Four Corners Monument to snap some photos and horse around. It is the mid-way point between Mesa Verde and the Grand Canyon. Personally, unless you really want a photo, skip this. It was $25 for a family of five, and it is distinctly underwhelming. Kinda a rip-off, if you ask me. 

Roll into Grand Canyon around 5 p.m. and camp at Mather Campground inside Grand Canyon National Park on the South Rim. I highly recommend this campground because it is pretty and convenient. While it doesn’t qualify for glamping (there are no hookups and the only showers are pay showers - $2 for 8 minutes - are located right outside the campground at the bottom of the hill - it is quiet, wooded, beautiful, and the camping spots are spacious. It only fits small trailers and tents. We brought a generator and car batteries, so we had power the whole time, and filled our water tanks with potable water, which is located right next to the showers. There is a grocery store and general store very close to the campground - but it is best if you drive to it - you can get ice there. The firewood is a bit overpriced, I thought. $80 for 4 nights lodging- cheap.

There is a free shuttle that stops at the campground that will take you anywhere within the South Rim of the Grand Canyon that you want to go, which is nice because parking spots are difficult to come by. If you are going to stay here, get your reservations in early as it is popular.

 PRO TIP: Grand Canyon is at elevation. It gets cold at night. Be prepared.

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Day 3:
Sleep in and enjoy the quiet of the campground, and when you are ready, head over to Bright Angel Lodge for breakfast. I recommend riding the shuttle - but don’t catch it at the campground. Walk a short distance to the Shrine of the Ages and catch a shuttle headed west to Bright Angel. Bright Angel Restaurant serves up reasonably priced and SUPER HEARTY breakfast. $50 for a family of four - you will want to skip lunch. Enjoy the views of the canyon behind the lodge afterwards - they are stunning. 

Catch the shuttle to the visitor’s center to look at the ranger led programs and get your bearings. There are tons of free ranger-led programs at the Grand Canyon, as well as an outstanding Hopi demonstration. 

Walk to Mather Point, soak in the view, then walk along the rim to Yavapai Point and Geology Museum. Then, continue your Rim walk along the trail of time and walk to the Hopi House. Make sure to go in the Hopi House and window shop handmade wares from local tribes.

Afterwards, catch the 1 p.m. Hopi demonstration in front of the Hopi House. Indigenous dancing, singing, flute, and storytelling - it is MAGICAL. Don’t miss it!  Also make sure to check out El Tovar Hotel, which is a historical lodge right next to the Hopi House. 

Day 4:
While at the Grand Canyon, catching sunrises and sunsets are a must. Get up at 4:30 a.m. and drive to the visitor’s center. DO IT.

PRO TIP - there is a parking lot for buses behind the visitor’s center that has tons of parking and is closer to the canyon. Park there, and walk to Mather’s Point. Be prepared to jostle all the international visitors to get your perfect sunrise photo, and wear a jacket - it is chilly and windy.

After the sun rises, do a run or a walk along the rim from Mather’s Point to Bright Angel Lodge. It is a STUNNING run, there are elk, and you have the trail to yourself. It’s about 3 hilly miles, but the course is ultimately all downhill. Then stop in at the lodge and get a GIANT pastry and a coffee from the little coffeehouse as a reward, and sit out on the rim and soak in the views. 

Afterward, we chose to chill out at the campground for the rest of the day, reading and playing games. You can also choose to ride the shuttle to any of the other viewpoints, catch ranger programs, or go to Hermit’s rest. We needed rest.

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Day 5: Hike Into the Grand Canyon

Come on sleepy heads - get up early to beat the heat and hike down into the canyon! We drove to Bright Angel lodge and parked at the Bright Angel Trailhead - we were on the trail by 7 a.m. and hiked 1.5 miles down into the canyon to the first resthouse. It is 1,000 feet down to the rest house, and then you guessed it, 1,000 feet back up. The kids did great and loved the hike - you also get to see all the backpackers who are hiking the whole canyon and the mule trips down into the canyon. 

Rest, chill out at the campground until the afternoon, then go catch the free 5 p.m. Condor talk - the talk is in between El Tovar and Bright Angel Lodge on the rim at a little ampitheatre. The kids really enjoyed the talk and learned a lot. Afterwards, Aaron and I headed over to get drinks at El Tovar hotel - try to get a seat outside. The drinks aren’t anything to write home about, but the location and view can’t be beat. 

Next, catch a shuttle up hermit’s road to Hopi Point for the most spectacular sunset you may ever see. After the sun sets, the shuttles stop running, so as soon as the sun sets, head to the left to catch a return shuttle to the campground. 

PRO TIP: There are two California Condors that hang out around the Hopi House on the rim. If you are lucky like we were, you will get to see these rare and majestic creatures. 

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​Day 6: Travel Day

First you must stop at Desert View on the way out of the park. It is an incredible piece of architecture, and the views. The views. 

Then get on your way, and stop at Horseshoe Bend, which is about halfway between Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon. Take water, and wear good shoes - it is well worth the walk up and over the hill to see the natural wonder that is Horseshoe Bend, but it is HOT HOT HOT.  

Stop at Glazier’s market in Kanab for groceries. A little pricey, but a cool little market and local business, and after your 4 days in Grand Canyon you likely will need some groceries.

Next, make sure to stop at Thunderbird’s in Mt. Carmel Junction for pie. It is a nice break, the place has the coolest back story and still family run, and the pie is yummy. I recommend the chocolate cream or the hot apple pie with caramel rum sauce. I love supporting local businesses, especially ones as cool as this. $30 for pie for 5.

Check into Ruby’s RV park and campground just outside Bryce Canyon late afternoon. We had electric and water and the site was spacious and wooded and looked out over a lake. So pretty. It is a short walk to the bathrooms and showers, and there is a pool which we took full advantage. There is a free shuttle into the park that stops at the campground - so convenient! $200 for 4 nights lodging. Also - great laundry facilities. Do your laundry here. 
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Day 7: Bryce Canyon
Sleep in a little, and then ride the free shuttle into Bryce Canyon National Park. Stop at the visitor’s center for information and your passport stamp (those are fun to collect!), then ride the shuttle up to Bryce Point. Get out and take in the views - SUCH VIEWS!! Hike the rim to Inspiration Point for views and to stretch your legs. Then, hop on the shuttle and ride it to sunrise point and hike the Queen’s Garden-Navajo Loop trail down into the canyon for mind-blowing hoodoo experiences. Be ready to do some serious climbing, and bring water - this trail is marked as strenuous but so, so worth it. Our kids did fine - you come out at sunset point - at which point you can walk over to the general store and enjoy some well-deserved soft serve ice cream for the kids and local beers for the adults, and enjoy everything out on the patio. We recommend Wasatch Polygamy Porter.

Day 8: Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument
Originally we had planned doing some slot canyoneering on Hole in the Rock road - Peek-a-boo gulch and spooky Gulch - however the weather did not cooperate. Instead, we did Willis Creek - a 2 mile family-friendly river walk that encompasses 5 slot canyons! We had lunch at Circle D Eatery - which was highly recommended but just meh - $50 for a family of 5 to have burgers. Meh. 

In the afternoon, we had the most spectacular hike - Lower Calf Creek Falls. Originally I hadn’t planned it because I thought it would be too strenuous for the kids, but they did great. It is 6 mile sandy loop trail up a riparian corridor - an oasis in the desert. Along the way you will see beautiful red rock formations, petroglyphs, cliff dwelling ruins, huge sandstone cliffs, and at the end you are rewarded with the most beautiful 130 foot waterfall!! Best of all - you can swim in the waterfall pool, so bring your swim trunks. The kids can play in the sand, slide down the slick rock, explore the pool, etc. It is a great place to linger, but don’t forget you have 3 sandy miles to hike back.

PRO TIP: Ask the camp host at the trailhead for the trail guide - there are markers along the trail that point out cool things. 

Day 9: Kodachrome State Park

Sleep in - after hiking 8 miles yesterday, you deserve it! If it is not too hot, head to Kodachrome State Park for some red cliffs and solitude. I recommend the grand parade trail and Angel’s Palace. Angel’s Palace is not very kid friendly - there are some pretty steep cliffs!

You have GOT to do a sunset at Bryce Canyon. We drove to Bryce Point for sunset - just magnificent. After the sun sets, drive to Paria View, bring a blanket, a star chart, and some snacks for some of the best star gazing you may ever experience. There is a little bench halfway down the paved area that is perfect. If the moon is bright don’t despair - the moonlight on the white cliffs is mesmerizing. 

Day 10: Travel Day

Plan your route to go through Capitol Reef National Park. As you drive, admire the crumbling red cliffs. Stop at the historic Gifford House in Fruita for PIE. Fresh every day, their pies are cute and delicious. Their fruit pies are to die for - just don’t get 5 pies, like we did. Too. Much. $30 for pie, and $8 for cherry butter (worth it!), and you can eat outside under a shade tree. 

Check in to the Canyonlands RV Park in Moab in the afternoon. This RV park can only accommodate smaller rigs, has water and electric, a pool, and a sweet little creek area for cooling off - very necessary because Moab is HOT. HOT HOT HOT. They also sell ice, have free showers, and nice bathrooms. There are no fire rings at the RV sites - so plan accordingly. You can also tent camp. Honestly, by the time we hit Moab, we were all camp fired out. $200 for 4 nights lodging.  One of the coolest things about this campground is that it is filled with adventure seekers - hikers, mountain bikers, everybody is there for desert fun.

You will likely be too tired and hot to cook dinner, so why not try the local restaurants? We ate at the Moab Brewery and Fiesta Mexicana. Both were GREAT - Moab Brewery has awesome beer and small plates, and Fiesta Mexicana has great service, a patio with MISTERS, and the best margaritas in town. Yum. Both reasonably priced, and ok with tired, dirty campers.

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Day 11: Arches National Park

Set your alarm for 4:30 a.m. because you want to catch the sunrise at delicate arch. It is TOTALLY WORTH IT. The Delicate Arch hike is 3 miles round trip and is marked as ‘strenuous’ for good reason. There is no shade, so you want to be off this trail before the sun is high in the sky, but my oh my, to catch sunrise on the arch is magic. DO IT. On the way back, take the side trail to see some awesome Ute petroglyphs. 

After, catch some more arches - landscape arch, double arch, and balanced rock are all short and easy. You can be done before 8 a.m. and head back into town for muffins and coffee at Love Muffin Cafe (a little pricey - $30 for 3 coffees and 4 muffins). We didn’t get a chance to get tickets for the fiery furnace, but if you can get tickets, the fiery furnace is supposed to be amazing.  

After, you can hit slickrock or Bar M trailhead for world class mountain biking. We did Bar M - truly amazing.

The rest of the day we chilled out at the campground, swimming, BBQ at the pool, and card games.

Day 12: River Rafting
 Sleep in - you will need your energy. After breakfast, go to Moab Adventure center to check in for river rafting and get your life jacket. After a wild bus ride up the canyon, be prepared for a super fun day on the Colorado River with a delicious BBQ lunch (included), Class 3 rapids, and fun water wars. This was the highlight of the trip for the kids. $270 for 5 people.

Day 13: Canyonlands and Jeeping

Canyonlands NP is about 30 miles from Moab, so to catch sunrise you are going to have to be an early bird. We got up at 4 a.m. and caught sunrise at Mesa Arch. Absolutely spectacular! Canyonlands is special in that it is completely devoid of people - if you ever want to have a NP to yourself, come here. We also hiked up Whale Rock for some slick rock fun and amazing views of Island in the Sky, and stopped and snapped a pic at Grandview.

On the way back, stop and get coffee from Moab Roasters - you are going to need it.

If you have followed this far, then you can’t miss a Jeep Tour with Dan Micks - the original pioneer of slick rock jeeping in Moab. This tour is the real deal - all the other companies go around the obstacles, Dan Micks goes OVER them. This is pee in your pants scary - not for the faint of heart! The jeeps defy gravity. Our driver was a sweet Mormon man who played Disney karaoke with the kids for an hour and drove like a bat out of hell. God bless him...and his seven sisters (not kidding). The kids LOVED LOVED LOVED this, and if you are in Moab, this is a can’t miss experience. It’s pricey tho - $500 with tip for a 3 hour tour....a 3 hour tour.

More recommendations:

• You can’t bring enough sunscreen or bug spray.
• Mostly, we ate two meals a day. The heat decreases your appetite, so you eat less. Also, we ate earlier in the day.
• Go to bed when the sun goes down so you can maximize your time in the desert.
• Stop at the local businesses and support them - the businesses highlighted in this itinerary are the real deal and they live or die by our tourist dollars.
• Learn about the places you are visiting before you go. Our local library was a treasure trove of guide books that I mined for our trip, and it was fun to read stuff to the kids before we visited each of the places.
• We bought each of the kids one souvenir each - a t shirt (and hat for Aricin). Other than that, all we bought was magnets, stickers for the pop-up trailer, and experiences. Save your money and don’t buy stuff.
• Utah is WEIRD about their liquor. Seriously - the liquor stores are owned by the state and have all kinds of rules. Try and bring most of your alcohol with you.
• Drink a gallon of water per person per day in the desert, and bring a giant container of lotion. The desert sucks water out of you like crazy!
• HAVE FUN. Southern Utah is a different planet, and everything is crumbling and eroding. These arches and hydrologic wonders won’t be around forever, so enjoy them while you can.

 
 
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